It is hot in Istanbul. You cannot move without sweat slowly gathering on every inch of your skin. Many Istanbullians escape to the south of Turkey whenever possible. Those that cannot leave Istanbul search for escapes. My favorite? Ada Beach Club on Heybeliada. While a little pricey (35 lira), a day at Ada Beach Club offers the same experience found along the shores of Bodrum. Once admitted you have your pick of chairs, lounges and cabannas. The crystal clear water awaits you and instantly cools you down. There is a cafe that offers snacks and beer to be enjoyed as you lounge by the water. And, one of my favorite parts? There is a special boat provided by the beach club that takes you to this hidden cove from the main promenade of Heybliada. If you miss the water shuttle, you can always take a horse-drawn carriage. With transportation options like this, it is easy to feel the enchantment of this place. At the end of the day, the club’s water shuttle whisks people away to ensure they catch the last ferries off the island. It is a perfect way to spend a hot day in Istanbul.
It was a beautiful day in Istanbul, and we ventured over to the Asian side to explore and relax. First, we travelled by ferry from Besiktas to Uskudar. Then, we took a Beykoz-bound dolmus (minibus) along the shore. At least at first. It was a holiday, which meant all of Istanbul was out, ready to play. So, in typical Turkish fashion, our driver zig-zagged through the back streets to ensure we would avoid any and all traffic. Despite a bit of car-sickness, it was a success. We saw parts of Istanbul we never saw before, and we were in Beykoz in less than 40 minutes.
Every town along the shore has a unique small-town flair, enhanced by its beautiful promenade along the shore. Everything is green, and the Bosphorus sparkled. We wandered past fishing boats, and ate durum at a seaside restaurant. Afterwards, we wandered along the promenade and through the tulip-filled gardens of Beykoz Sosyal Tesisleri (a social facility). We ate ice cream and sipped tea, and for an afternoon, we felt worlds away from our daily lives, without actually leaving the city. If you are looking for a day trip in Istanbul, I strongly encourage a trip to the seaside villages of the Asian shore.
In addition to Beykoz, there are several others I would recommend.
-Kanlica- Famous for its yogurt, this seaside village also has a lively covered market and numerous shops and cafes.
-Anadolu Hisari-Located next to the fortress of Asia, there is a small park as well as a canal lined by cafes and full of boats.
-Cengelkoy- There is an old maple tree that brings shade and charm to this seaside town. There are lots of cafes, and a bazaar on Monday.
-Beylerbeyi- Close the second bridge, Beylerbeyi has wonderful fish restaurants and some hidden courtyards nestled in the backstreets.
For my birthday, I was surprised me with a very special birthday treat: a weekend trip to Buyukada, the largest of the Princes Islands. The islands are accessible by ferry from central Istanbul and are the perfect retreat from the everyday chaos of city life. The large ferries have the capacity to take around 1500 people each trip, and in the summertime, these ferries are beyond capacity. Stairs become seats, and any floor space is open for the taking. The ferry ride alone is a unique and joyous experience. A man walks around the ferry with a tray of tea and sugar, selling it at the bargain price of 50 kurus. A salesman walks through the cabin with special lemon squeezers, stopping in each section for a special presentation that always captivates the entire room. We stopped at one of the fabulous meatball sandwich stands near the Kabatas waterfront to buy our special lunch in preparation for the 80 minute journey. The sandwiches cost 5 lira, and worth every penny for the fresh tomatoes and richly seasoned meatballs cooked when you order.
Once we reached the island, we walked through the small town. Unlike its bustling summer persona, we found the seaside village quiet and calm. While people normally fill the streets, the small groups that did venture to the islands were now hidden inside the warm cafes and restaurants. Cats and dogs outnumbered the people on the streets. We walked towards our hotel and checked-in. We were impressed by the terrace view of the city, and our spotless room. Next, we walked to the line of horse-drawn carriages (bicycles and carriages rule the streets here. There are no cars allowed), and quickly arranged to go to Lunapark, the closest destination to the small monastery located at one of the highest points of the island. We passed the old and glamorous summer homes of Istanbul’s elite, joking about which one we would buy and make our own. When we reached the bottom of the monastery’s steep hill we thanked our carriage driver and began to walk. We stopped occasionally to take in the view, and 20 minutes later we reached the top.
On a normal summer day, the monastery would be open to visitors and tourists would be wandering up and down the steep hill. However, on this day, the area was empty and ours to explore. We wandered around the beautiful site, and eventually ended up in the small cafe located at the top. Looking over the entire island, and the city’s distant shore, this cafe has one of the most extraordinary locations in Turkey. There was a lively group of Greek people joyously engaged in a night of dancing and drinking inside. We speculated on their lives and background, and assumed they were island fisherman who called Buyukada home. We watched as they danced around with the Raki glasses increasingly more recklessly, and laughed and talked as if we were worlds away from our everyday lives. We sat in this small cafe and watched the sunset as two cats jumped in and out of our laps, and the small stove in the center of the room warmed up the entire space.
We eventually left the cafe and walked down the hill, hoping that there would still be carriages down below. We were lucky: there were two. We travelled back to town humbled by the peace and calm of the cold March evening. We returned to our hotel and prepared to go to dinner. We sat and talked, surrounded by other couples in the terrace restaurant. We retired for the evening and spent the night indulging in American television shows that we never watch at home. We woke-up to a large breakfast, Caglayan tried his luck fishing and in the early afternoon we caught the ferry back to Istanbul…
It was a wonderful getaway and the perfect birthday present. Buyukada is one of my favorite places in Turkey. It is the perfect refuge, and a must-see for any summer visitor to Istanbul.
We spent last Sunday soaking up the sunshine and exploring a new neighborhood. Kalamış is on the Asian side of Istanbul, and situated along the waterfront. Fenerbahce Park, a yacht club and a line of of restaurants bring Kalamis to life.
We started our day sipping tea on the ferry to Kadikoy. We caught a dolmus (a shared taxi) headed to Bostanci and it dropped us off at the top of Kalamis. We wandered along the waterfront, laughing and chatting. Cafes lined the street, with the yacht club as a backdrop. Pop music of every decade and origin competed for my attention, people walked hand-in-hand with loved ones and familes watched as their children ran around the park. We strolled through the park, sat along the shore and ended our day at one of the cafes, eating fajitas and sharing apple and mint nargile. It was wonderful.
With the temptation of a special deal, and a special trip outside of the city, we booked a 1-day tour to Lake Abant and Yedigoller (Seven Lakes) National Park. These two beautiful places are close to Bolu, a popular holiday destination for some Istanbul families. We awoke at the ungodly hour of 6 AM on Sunday, and gathered in the darkness of the Yildiz Mosque in Besiktas in anticipation of the tour bus. We departed Besiktas at 7:15 and arrived at Lake Abant a little before noon. Lake Abant once lay along the Silk Road, and apparently is even mentioned in the Illiad. It is 1500 meters above sea level, and upon our arrival, we were greeted with the first snow of the season. The lake itself is beautiful. It is covered by lily pads, and surrounded by a forest. There are various walking paths, picnic sites and a boardwalk that allows you to hang over the water. You can even rent horses, or stay at one of the luxury inns that hang over the shore of the lake. Apparently, it freezes in the winter time and you can go ice skating.
The area also symbolizes the struggle to achieve an equilibrium between promoting tourism and preserving the natural environment. Unfortunately, Lake Abant is an example of misguided efforts to promote tourism and quickly improve the local economy. In these efforts, private individuals and companies were given access to this natural paradise and given permits to build obtrusive restaurants, hotels and other businesses that now disrupt and detract from the natural beauty of the area.
However, 3 hours later we were in Yedigoller park. A national park, removed from any development or tourist traps. The last 45 minutes of the trip required us to ride in small vans in order to make it through the windy dirt roads that curve through the forest. We were told that the mayor is passionately opposed to developing, or even paving the road that leads to the park. He used Lake Abant as an example of what he fears for Yedigoller Park: if the park becomes more accessible and more developed, the natural beauty and habitats within the park will be lost. The park is absolutely breathtaking. There are seven lakes which you stumble upon as you walk through the forest. There are handcrafted bridges, a small waterfall and fountains overflowing with fresh, cold water from the stream that passes through the park. Images from The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe and the children’s first explorations of Narnia swirled through my mind as I walked through the park. It was serene, beautiful and pristine.